Country Inn of Krumville

They come by plane and by train, some even by boat. Many travel overland a great distance. I'm not talking about the people who visit the Country Inn of Krumville in the tucked away town of Krumville, New York. I'm talking about the 500 different beers the restaurant lists on its impressive, wall-sized beer menu. There are beers from as close by as Albany and Long Island and as far away as Mexico, Germany, Belgium and Japan. And any one of these 12-ounce or larger bottles could end its journey on your table when you send one of the pleasant wait staff on a short scavenger hunt.

You may have to go over the river and through the woods to get there yourself, but if you're a beer lover, you'll wonder why you didn't discover the Country Inn of Krumville sooner. The restaurant, which overlooks a beaver pond and feels a bit like a cozy hunting lodge, is located on winding County Route 2 about a half-hour from Kingston or New Paltz, New York.

You might expect a place with a pool table and an extraordinary selection of brew to attract a rowdy bunch of fraternity brothers for traditional fried pub food. Au contraire. The inn also has a quaint candlelit dining area with a fireplace and pleasant music playing in the background. In addition to the amazing array of beers, the inn also has a decent wine list, plus a full bar. (I’ll try the house made horseradish-infused vodka on my next visit when I have a designated driver.) Chili, fish and chips and burgers can be found on the menu, but some wonderful culinary delights are here for your enjoyment, as well. The chef also prepares appetizer and entrée specials each night. See The Country Inn's Facebook page for current specials.

I visited the Country Inn of Krumville in April of 2007. After ordering a delicious pint of Evan's Kick Ass Brown Ale (brewed in Albany), I decided to bypass the soup, salad, peppercorn encrusted duck breast, calamari and other starters and go with a beer theme for my meal. First, I sampled the Mussels with Lambic, a large portion of tender mussels in a mild Belgian-style lambic beer broth with some cooked onions. The broth was good enough to pull me away from the tasty dipping oil that came with my warm bread.

While the inn's dinner menu features limited entrée choices, something can be found to satisfy just about any craving. (Most entrées were priced in the $15-$20 range at the time of my visit.) Chicken, duck, fish, pork, steak and vegetarian pasta dishes are all available. Side items include Rustic Polenta, Hand Cut Fries and Country Inn Potatoes. Had I not already decided on the beer theme, I would have had a hard time choosing between the Chicken Hunter-Style with tomatoes, spinach, scallions and mushrooms over polenta and the Tilapia Panko encrusted in breadcrumbs and served with a garlic-basil aioli. The obvious choice for me was the Carbonnade, a dish featuring Fleisher’s grass-fed beef slowly cooked in Belgian Ale and served over fresh pasta.

I ordered a second draught beer from the list of 10, a Corsendonk Brown from Belgium. My friendly server informed me that this was the beer used to slow cook the beef in my entrée. Fitting. I have no problem drinking and eating the same beer.

The Carbonnade was a hearty choice for a cold, rainy, early spring day. The small chunks of tender and flavorful beer-soaked beef reminded me of something that might be found in a top-notch stew. They were served over egg noodles with enough savory brown beer sauce to use as a dip for the final piece of bread I had remaining.

For beer number three, I opted for something less filling. The Hoptical Illusion India Pale Ale from Blue Point Brewing Company on Long Island fit the bill, and it was something I had never tried, nor heard of, for that matter. It was very hoppy but still enjoyable.

The dessert list includes a number of solid and liquid choices. Coffee, tea, cappuccino and espresso are available. Belgian fruit lambic dessert beers are available both on tap and in bottles. Also on the menu: a nice selection of port, as well as a long list of suggested spirits and digestives, including cognac and grappa.

Each of the four “solid” dessert choices may be ordered with or without a suggested port or cordial. I chose the chocolate cake paired with a glass of Dow's Aged Tawny Port. If I have to find a criticism, the cake was just average. I guess that's what I get for straying from the beer theme.

The Country Inn of Krumville may be off the beaten path, but it's worth the trip, even if beer is not your beverage of choice. Of course, if you do like to try new brews, you'll need to find your way to Krumville, New York, 150 times or so to sample them all.

The Country Inn of Krumville is located at 1380 County Route 2 in Krumville, New York, between the towns of Woodstock and Stone Ridge, about a two-hour drive from Manhattan. The restaurant is closed every Monday and Tuesday. It opens at 5 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday and 4 p.m. Sunday.

The inn accepts cash only, but an ATM is located on-site for those who are accustomed to only carrying plastic.

Reservations are accepted and are an especially good idea for groups of six or more. Call during regular business hours, 845-657-8956, as this old school restaurant does not have a fax or answering machine.