Baxter State Park
64 Balsam Drive
Millinocket, Maine 04462
(207) 723-5140
Guest Review submitted by: Rich
Submitted: 08/07/02
Rating: Five Gold Leaves.
The best!
If you're headed to Baxter State Park, prepare for an adventure in one of the most secluded and perfect retreats in the Northeast. Baxter
offers hundreds of miles of everything that makes a true outdoor experience.
This is a preserved slice of the Great North Woods of Maine meant to be kept
"forever wild" by its donor (God Bless him), Percival Baxter. And wild it is. Moose outnumber people. Blackflies
outnumber stars in the sky. You, my friend, can now feel what it is like to be a
minority....
Baxter has one road, a limited number of human entries per day and more rules than
a rehab clinic (no audio devices allowed, including cell phones); this place is the real deal. Be sure to reserve a campsite months in advance
(Maine residents get first dibs), or get in line at 4 a.m. in back of all the others. After all, this park is home to the majestic Mt.
Kathadin, one of the most desirable hikes in the East.
Unlike most parks, Baxter State Park is extremely difficult to see in a day, or by vehicle. The single, bumpy, dirt road posts a speed limit of 20
MPH and takes seemingly hours to travel end to end. I've done it; it's not worth it. Very little of interest is seen
from the road. Our tyrannical friends at Baxter (notice the Web site: baxterstateparkauthority.com)
have kept it this way on purpose to maintain its status as a true outdoor preserve. When compared to the traffic and general chaos of Acadia,
where few people ever leave their cars, this place is well appreciated.
Your trip to Baxter should be well planned out months in advance and a camping area chosen based on your preferences.
Orient yourself via Baxter's official map.
There are a few "developed" camping areas and a large number of hike-to remote sites that
consist of an outhouse and a fire ring. You decide which suits you best, but I wholly recommend the hike-ins. The benefit is that an entire lake
can be yours, and no person can be seen for days. The detriment is you could die here, and no one may ever find you. That's good fun in my
book.
Your excursions are generally based on your location at Baxter, as parking lots are tiny and always full. In general, you stay
where you're at, if you get there at all. A list of hiking trails can also be seen on the
"Baxter authority" Web site. Your hikes will be amazing, your camping divine. Kidney Pond is a perfect little camp but is
always booked solid. Postmark your request the first day they begin taking reservations and hope the Mainers haven't been as diligent--they are
deeded to get first crack.
So what's so great about Baxter then? Wilderness, unspoiled. Remember that this park was always free and wild. Logging occurred in parts, but
unlike in our National Parks, it is no longer allowed. Animals are free to live in
peace; moose are everywhere. You realize this at night when the woods come alive with sounds of animals you never have heard nor care
to meet. "Holding it" all night is common at Baxter--you're just too afraid to step outside into the melee that is nocturnal life in the wilds
of Maine. Sasquatch perhaps?
The glacial ponds are beautiful and crystal clear. They also teem with trout--some illustrious native Maine brookies. I spent the better part
of a weekend trying to fish for these guys but to no avail. These are not tank fish that prefer fish feed to insects. You need to know your
insects and match the hatch. They're native for a reason--they have learned how to survive.
Overall, Baxter is tough, tough to reserve, tough to get to and tough to conquer. But believe me, if you're into the Great forests, it's
worth it. If you're a bit of a Mary (i.e., wimp), though, stick to Freeport. There's no shopping or civilization for miles around. Remember to BYOB
(whiskey is best--it's light and warming); you may need it for those cold North
Woods nights....
