Barnaby Evans was commissioned to create the First Fire in 1994 in celebration of the tenth anniversary of First Night Providence, the city's New Year's Eve celebration. In 1996, he created Second Fire for the International Sculpture Conference. Those enchanted by his creations soon thereafter organized a fund-raising effort to support a permanent installation. The 1997 season featured 13 WaterFire events that attracted an estimated 350,000 people. Not only has the number of bonfires increased, but Providence residents and visitors will have an opportunity to see WaterFire's light nine times during the 2009 season, which runs through October 10. The 2009 WaterFire schedule also features several partial lightings. Call 401-272-3111 for updates, particularly if there is threatening weather.
The 97 flaming braziers are ignited at sundown by volunteers who man boats stocked with additional wood supplies that are used to keep the fires burning until the wee hours--the musical accompaniment selected for each event by Evans plays until just after midnight. The fragrant mixture of pine, oak and cedar creates an intoxicating smoky perfume that wafts delicately off the water, and the carefully selected score harmonizes with the crackling fires, resonates off the river bridges and streams along the walkways in perfect concert with the flickering flames.
From our vantagepoint overlooking the central core of the installation from the street above, we were able to see the torch runners arrive and climb aboard the boats. Another fine place to watch the enchantment is from a gondola on the river. Call La Gondola at 401-421-8877 well in advance to make reservations for a WaterFire evening. On several nights during the 2009 season, there will be free dancing in the Sovereign Plaza Ballroom overlooking the spectacle, courtesy of Sovereign Bank New England, or free concerts on the Verizon Jazz Stage. Call the WaterFire information line, 401-272-3111, for details.
Actually, there truly is no "bad" spot from which to watch WaterFire, and you'll want to move about, strolling along the riverside walkways and under the echoing bridges to view the sculpture from many angles. It's a good idea to arrive early in Providence--crowds begin to accumulate well before sundown.
Getting there: WaterFire takes place in downtown Providence on select evenings. From Interstate 95 North or South, take exit 22. The off ramp brings you onto Memorial Boulevard, which runs along the river. WaterFire is on your left after the first set of lights, and the installation extends down past the Crawford Street Bridge. From Route 195, follow the signs for Route 95 north (toward Boston). Stay to the right, take exit 22, and follow the directions above. There is ample parking available--some free, some not.
Where to stay: Compare rates at Providence hotels with About.com's travel partner, kayak.com.
Bring along: A jacket, as it may be chilly after dark; a loved one to hold hands with as you stroll along the rivers; and tissues if there's any chance you're a sentimental sap like me.
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